The Florida Home Inspection Checklist: What Your Inspector Should Actually Look For

A good inspector finds things — the question is which category each thing falls into. Safety hazard. Insurance problem. Normal wear. End-of-life item to price in. Those are very different buckets, and the inspection report does not sort them for you.

Florida adds a layer of complexity most national guides skip entirely. The roof is an insurance asset, not just a weather barrier. The AC dies faster here than anywhere else in the country. Stucco cracks need an eye trained on coastal Florida block construction. And if you are buying in central Florida near the I-4 corridor, sinkholes are a real question — not a myth.

This guide walks through the Florida-specific inspection items I watch most closely with buyers, what each finding actually means, and how to negotiate from the report.

The Roof: Age Matters More Than Condition

In Florida, the roof is not just a structural question — it is an insurance question. Carriers look at the roof age and material before they will write a policy. A roof installed before 2010 is often a problem, not because it is failing, but because it predates the stronger Florida Building Code requirements that came out of the 2004-2005 hurricane seasons. Many carriers will not write new policies on pre-2010 roofs, or they will quote them at rates that shock buyers.

Shingle roofs in Florida last 15-20 years on average. The heat, UV, and humidity shorten the lifespan considerably compared to the 25-30 years you see quoted in national guides. If the inspector calls the roof at 12-15 years and notes worn granules or brittle shingles, start running insurance quotes before you decide whether to proceed.

• Roof age and material: ask for permit records if the seller claims a recent replacement
• Flashing at the chimney, skylights, valleys, and roof-to-wall junctions — these leak first
• Soffit and fascia condition: rotted wood here means ongoing moisture intrusion
• Evidence of prior repairs: layered shingles, mismatched sections, inconsistent granule color

If the roof is 10 or more years old and the seller is not crediting anything toward replacement, get a roofer out during your inspection period to give you a written estimate. That estimate becomes your negotiation anchor.

The 4-Point Inspection: The Insurance Gatekeeper

A standard home inspection tells you about the condition of the home. A 4-point inspection tells the insurance company whether they will cover it. These are not the same thing, and buyers often conflate them.

The 4-point covers four systems: roof, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC. For homes 20 years or older, most Florida insurance carriers require a 4-point before writing a new policy. Citizens Property Insurance requires it for homes 30 years and older. The question the carrier is asking is not whether the home is nice — it is whether each system meets a minimum insurable threshold.

• Electrical: Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels and Zinsco panels are still in homes built in the 1960s-1980s around Tampa Bay — carriers often refuse to insure them outright
• Plumbing: Polybutylene pipes (gray plastic, installed 1978-1995) are another carrier refusal. Cast iron drain lines in older homes need a scope.
• HVAC: Many carriers want the system under 15-20 years old. An older system may still function fine but create an insurance gap.
• Roof: See above — age and code compliance are both evaluated

A 4-point that comes back with red flags does not automatically kill the deal, but it does mean you need to resolve the insurance question before closing. Budget an extra $100-125 to add a 4-point to your general inspection — it is worth it on any home more than 20 years old.

Wind Mitigation Report: Where Your Premium Lives

The wind mitigation report (OIR-B1-1802) is separate from both the general inspection and the 4-point. It documents how the home is built to resist hurricane-force wind — roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall connections, opening protection (windows, doors, garage), and secondary water resistance. The results go to your insurer and can reduce your windstorm premium by 10-45% depending on what qualifies.

As of April 2026, Florida updated the form for the first time in over a decade (new OIR-B1-1802). If the seller has an existing wind mitigation report on file, check whether it was issued before April 2026 and whether it will be accepted by your carrier under the new standards. A fresh report runs about $100 and is valid for five years.

Homes with hip roofs, concrete block construction, impact-rated windows, and newer roof deck nailing patterns do well on wind mitigation. Gabled roofs and older nailing (6-inch spacing vs. 6-inch at perimeter and 12-inch field) score lower. Neither is a dealbreaker — they just set your insurance math.

WDO Inspection: Never Skip It

WDO stands for Wood Destroying Organisms — termites, wood-boring beetles, and wood-decaying fungi. Florida is the most termite-active state in the country. Subterranean termites are the worst; drywood termites are manageable. The WDO inspection is performed by a licensed pest control company, not your general inspector.

Most mortgage lenders in Florida require a clean WDO report before approving the loan. But even in cash deals, skip this at your peril. A WDO inspector looks for active infestations, evidence of prior treatment, mud tubes at the foundation, wood-to-soil contact, and moisture conditions that invite future infestation.

Budget $75-125. If the inspector finds active subterranean termites, that is a negotiation item — tenting or soil treatment runs $1,500-$3,000 depending on home size. If they find an older infestation that has been treated and remediated, that is a note in the file, not necessarily a red flag.

AC Age: Florida Has Its Own Math

Nationally, HVAC systems are expected to last 15-20 years. In Florida, budget for 10-12 years. Along the coast — St. Pete, Tampa, Clearwater — salt air corrosion can cut that to 7-12 years. The system runs 8-10 months a year here instead of 5-6. It works harder, fails faster.

Your inspector will note the manufacture date from the data plate on the condenser (outdoor unit). If that date is 2012 or earlier, you are buying into end-of-life territory. Replacing a 3-ton system in the Tampa Bay area runs $4,500-$7,000 installed. Ask for a credit.

Also check: refrigerant type. Systems using R-22 (Freon) are pre-2010 manufacture and R-22 is now illegal to produce in the U.S. If that system needs a refrigerant recharge, the cost is prohibitive — it is a replacement, not a repair.

Stucco Cracks: Cosmetic vs. Something Worse

Most older Florida homes — particularly the concrete block homes that dominate St. Pete, Clearwater, and mid-century Tampa neighborhoods — have stucco exteriors. Cracks are common. Not all of them mean the same thing.

• Hairline cracks (under 1/8 inch, horizontal): normal thermal expansion and contraction, cosmetic
• Diagonal cracks at window and door corners: could be settlement or minor structural movement — note and monitor
• Stair-step cracks (following block joints): potentially indicates foundation movement, needs engineer evaluation
• Wide cracks with moisture staining or efflorescence (white salt deposits): active water intrusion — serious

If your inspector flags stair-step cracks or wide diagonal cracks, do not let a stucco contractor estimate the repair before a structural engineer or foundation specialist looks at the cause. Patching stucco over a foundation issue is like painting over mold — it hides the problem and defers the cost.

Sinkhole Indicators: Know Your Geography

Sinkholes are real in Florida. They are not evenly distributed. Coastal Tampa Bay (Pinellas County, most of Hillsborough west of I-75) is lower risk. Central Florida — Pasco County, Hernando County, Polk County, the I-4 corridor between Tampa and Orlando — sits on the karst limestone that makes sinkhole activity more likely.

Signs that warrant a sinkhole assessment: diagonal cracks in block walls that worsen over time, doors or windows suddenly sticking, depressions in the yard or near the foundation, cracks in driveways or sidewalks radiating outward. These are not proof of a sinkhole — they can also be normal settlement — but in central Florida they are worth investigating before you close.

Citizens Property Insurance requires a sinkhole inspection for optional sinkhole coverage in high-activity areas. If you are buying in Pasco or Hernando County and the seller has no sinkhole inspection on file, that is a gap worth filling. A basic sinkhole assessment runs $300-$600. A full geotechnical investigation is more — but the alternative is owning the risk without knowing it.

Pool Equipment: A Separate Inspection Is Worth It

Your general inspector will look at the pool visually but is not typically a pool specialist. For a home with a pool — which describes roughly half of single-family homes in the Tampa Bay market — consider adding a dedicated pool inspection ($150-250).

Key items: pump age (8-12 year lifespan), filter condition, heater age (7-10 years), salt chlorinator condition, electrical bonding (this is a safety item — un-bonded pool equipment can cause electrocution), screen enclosure integrity, and deck condition. If the pool equipment is 10+ years old, get a pool company to walk it with you and quote replacement costs.

A failing pool pump is $800-1,500 to replace. A heater is $1,500-3,000. A damaged screen enclosure after a storm is $3,000-8,000 depending on size. These are not walk-away items, but they change the net cost of the home.

What to Negotiate, What to Price In, What to Walk Away From

The inspection report is a decision-making document, not a repair list to hand the seller. Here is how I help buyers think through the findings.

Ask the seller to fix or credit

• Active roof leaks or documented water intrusion
• Active pest infestation (termites, WDO findings)
• Electrical hazards: unsafe panels, ungrounded outlets in wet areas, double-tapped breakers
• Active plumbing leaks
• Mold where the moisture source is still present

Negotiate a credit or price reduction

• Roof 10+ years old with documented limited life remaining
• AC 10-12+ years old — get a replacement quote, ask for that amount as a closing credit
• Water heater over 8 years old (replacement runs $800-1,500)
• Pool equipment near or past expected lifespan
• Older plumbing or electrical that passes the 4-point but will need updating

Understand and price in (do not expect a concession)

• Cosmetic items: peeling paint, dated fixtures, minor caulking gaps
• Normal wear on a lived-in home
• Items the seller already disclosed in the seller property disclosure

Consider walking away

• Active sinkhole activity or strong indicators the seller refuses to test
• Clear structural movement (foundation, not just surface stucco)
• Extensive mold in walls or HVAC system with no willing remediation
• A seller who will not negotiate on any safety item — in a normal market, that posture is a signal

In a competitive market — multiple offers, sellers with leverage — buyers sometimes skip asking for cosmetic credits to keep the offer clean. That is reasonable. But safety hazards and insurability issues are non-negotiable regardless of market conditions. You cannot close without insurance, and you should not close on an active structural problem.

FAQ: Florida Home Inspection Questions

What is a 4-point inspection?

A 4-point inspection evaluates four major home systems — roof, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC — specifically for insurance underwriting purposes. It is separate from a standard home inspection, which looks at the whole property. If you are buying a home that is 20 years or older in Florida, plan on ordering both.

Should I attend the inspection?

Yes. Walk the home with the inspector for the full 2-3 hours. The written report is useful, but hearing the inspector describe what they are seeing in real time — and being able to ask follow-up questions on the spot — is where the real education happens. I always attend inspections with my buyers for exactly this reason.

What if the inspector finds something major?

First, categorize it: is this a safety issue, an insurability issue, an end-of-life item, or a cosmetic matter? Then get a specialist quote during your inspection period — a roofing contractor for roof findings, a licensed electrician for panel findings, a structural engineer for foundation concerns. The quote tells you the actual cost, which is what your negotiation should be based on. Vague findings without dollar figures are hard to negotiate.

Can I negotiate after inspection in a competitive market?

Yes, but be strategic about it. In a competitive market, asking for a list of 15 minor repairs will likely get a flat refusal. Instead, pick the two or three items that materially affect your cost or insurability, quantify them with contractor estimates, and make a single targeted request. Sellers respond better to a specific, documented ask than a laundry list. Safety and insurability items have more weight than cosmetic ones — no seller wants to be the one who refused to fix a documented electrical hazard.